Raise Compression by Removing Base Gasket...(actual mod. by PS&WS)

To do some of these you need to know go-peds fairly well and you need to be able to use certain tools, the only reason I'm including this is because I think these mods are awsome, easy and make such an improvement. Oh, and this mod can be done on any engine.
Materials:

• Allen Key/Wrench Set
• Strong Heat Resistant Liquid Gasket
• Screw Driver: Phillips (I like to use an "impact driver", helps not to strip the easily strippable screws.)
• Baseball Card/Business Card
• A Clean Rag
• A Brain With An IQ Over 3

Procedure:

• Ok, first take off your fan cover.
• Now take off your ignition coil, and make sure not to lose the little plastic spacers.
• Now remove the cylinder (don't twist it, pull it striaght off.)
• Note: If your engine is a '97 or older, (look for a marking on the flywheel if you're not sure) use sand paper to sand off the little arrow on top of the piston. While you're at it you might want to sand off the carbon build up on the piston.
• Take off the gasket laying on the crankcase.
• Use your rag to clean off the surface of the crankcase where the cylinder mounts and the base of the cylinder.
• Now take a drop (that means a SMALL pea size drop) of the liquid gasket and lightly spread it over the crankcase surface and the bottom of the cylinder.
• Now align the piston rings with the key things, sqeeze them (the rings), and slide on the cylinder.
• Screw everything back on tight, and your ready to go. Read on for more free mods to make your stock ped fly.

Advancing Spark Timing...(acutal mod. by PS&WS)

Again, the engine modification itself is not originated by me. It was thought up by the people at Pacific Sand & Water Sports. A link to their site is on every title bar that has a mod. by them below it. I re-wrote the directions, if you find mine to hard, go to thier site for pictures and a more detailed explination. Oh, I believed this modification is only for G23 engines, I tried to get directions for a G2D, and finally got them! (see below). Now without further adue... Materials: Screw Driver (Preferably an impact driver, look for one at your local hardware/automotive shop if you plan to be doing hardcore engine work.) Allen Key/Wrench Set Socket Wrench & Socket (I reccomend buying a set, if not only for engine work, but for anything. These are EXTREMELY useful.) Adjustable Oil Filter Wrench or a Pair of Huge Channle Locks (available at any automotive store, well most likely.) Flywheel Puller or Pair of 6mm Bolts (The bolts are available at Landsurfing.com as a set. Although I have found that the spindle bolt fits and works. But you need two of them.) Pair of Dykes/Sidecutters Procedure: Hmm, ok first take off the fan cover using your handy impact driver. Now you see the evil flywheel. Put your oil filter wrench or huge channel locks on it (do not use a screw driver or anything, you'll mess up your flywheel) and using your socket wrench and appropriate socket, remove the nut holding the flywheel on. Ok, procede in putting your each arm (there's 2, or should be) of the flywheel puller on the thick part (where the magnets are) of the flywheel. You will break the flywheel if the arms aren't on the thick part. If you have the 6mm bolts, screw them into the two holes until you hit the crankcase. The next part is fairly obvious, tighten the screw thing in the middle of the puller until the flywheel pops off making sure that the arms are even with each other. Or if you're using the bolts, give each one a 1/2 a turn at a time. Make sure they are even. Once you have the flywheel off, you'll see part of the crank sticking out. There's a little key thing in it. Using your side cutters, rip the key out. Now, with your piston at TDC (Top Dead Center) put your flywheel back on, except this time, move it over about 1/2 - 1 width of the key (for G2D engines do no more than 3/4 of a key width) CLOCKWISE. Using the oil filter wrench and the socket wrench, put the bolt back on. (you may need someone to hold the flywheel steady while you do this.) After the fan cover is screwed on with your IMPACT DRIVER, hehe, you're ready to ride. If you did the last mod and this mod, you should notice a big performance increase. Lighten Your Flywheel Ok, you've seen it from pretty much every go-ped product manufacuturer/service site "Flywheel Lightening - $35". What a joke, charging $35 to do something that you can do by yourself, for yourself. Yes of course those people are "professionals" and crap, but the flywheel is so small and simple on a go-ped, it really isn't too easy to mess up. Now I'm not saying this is an easy mod., in fact it's probably the hardest one here, because if you fuck up (with the balance or whatever) it'll cost you around $60 for a new flywheel. I have done this to my go-ped and many other people's go-peds and its excellent, so I felt that the knowledge should be shared, again. To do this, I reccomend advanced skill with a dremel because you need to make straight cuts as to not mess up the balance or any other part of the flywheel. And...its not much, but the difference in acceleration is amazing. Now, let us begin... Materials: Impact Driver/Screw Driver Flywheel Puller/6mm or Spindle Bolt Adjustable Oil Filter Wrench/Huge Channel Locks Socket Wrench and Appropriate Socket to Fit the Flywheel Nut Red Marker (Sharpie) Dremel Dremel Cutting Disk Set Safety Goggles/Glasses (Sounds corny, but you'll need them) Medium Grade Sand Paper Procedure: ·  Ok, obviously, if you've read all the mods, you take off your fan cover with the impact driver. ·  Now, use the adjustable oil filter wrench to hold the flywheel steady. Then with your socket wrench, remove the flywheel nut. ·  Then with either your flywheel puller, spindle bolt or pair of 6mm bolts, remove the flywheel. I'm not explaining it again, look at advancing your timing on how to do it. ·  Once you're flywheel is off, take out your dremel, cutting disks, and cutting disk mandrel. And...put one of the large cutting disks on. ·  Now look at your flywheel, mostly on the four long fins of each side. Now, use your sharpie and make a mark about 1/16 of an inch from the bottom on the two middle long fins. Do the same on the other side with the two middle long fins. (Hard to explain, but if you're doing this mod. you know what I'm talking about.) ·  Here's the dirty work part. Start up your dremel and let it run for a minute to reach its max RPMS, put on your safety goggles (getting cast iron filings in your eye is no picnic.) and slowly make a small cut where your red marking is on the fins. And we're working on one side at a time. ·  Once you have a cut made, cut the fin straight off. If you hit the fin next to it in the process, its not big deal, but if you're going to hit another fin, make it the other middle one you're going to cut off anyway. But if a little cut mark is made on the outside fins, no big deal...but don't make a habit of it. ·  Now repeat the process and cut off the other middle fin. Do the same for the other side's two middle fins. ·  Ok, balance. Look at your cuts, they should all be about the same height if you cut perfectly straight. (no one does that I know of hehe.) But if they aren't, get your medium grade sandpaper (about 150) and sand the four places you just cut until they are even, or close enough to even height. (It doesn't take much sanding, I normally make pretty straight cuts.) ·  There isn't really a way that I can think of to check for balance besides spinning it in the air. It should spin smoothly and not wobbley. If its wobbley, then you're dumb and don't know how to use a dremel. ·  If you would like to do some more lightening because the first time went so well, take off the two middle short fins on both the top and bottom the flywheel. (By the magnets.) Just use the same procedure as above. ·  Now instead of putting the flywheel back on normally, you might as well advance your timing. ·  Wow, what a rush, hope you had no problems, and if you do...I'm not responsable because I'm not the one who cut your flywheel. Have fun popping wheelies!   *Muffler Modification* This mod. should increase your acceleration and maybe top end, and noise. With bigfoots, this quiets them down and makes them faster, but sports do get louder, I can't deny it, but If you want every last bit of free performance gains, go for it. I use this when I mod. people's peds and its great. Now, let us begin... Materials: Screwdriver/Impact Driver Allen Key/Wrench Set Dremel, Cutting Disks, and One of Those Cylindrical Shiny Metal Cutting Blades Small Can of Machine Oil (so the cutting blade doesn't dull out quickly) Long, Thin, Needle Nose Pliers Procedure: Hmm ok, take of the engine shroud (Hehe even after you just put it back on from the last mod. Sorry.) Now remove the muffler with your allen keys. (I think its a 4mm bolt?) Put the muffler upside down in a vise, and tighten the vise. Use your dremel and cutting disks to cut off the sleeve sticking out of the muffler as close to the actual muffler and possible. Now use the shiny, cylindrical, cutting blade inside the hole to cut out the rest of the sleeve INSIDE the muffler. Every once in a while (10-20 seconds) drip 2-3 drops of the machine oil on the blade. You might even want to drip some oil around the hole. I find that just attempting to widen the hole by pressing around the circle helps to cut out the sleeve. (It just wears away) Once you've cut the the sleeve, (Its just a 1/4" peice of metal the same width as the sleeve that was sticking out of your muffler) procede to move the dremel in a circular motion while pressing fairly hard on the "sides" of the hole to widen it. Widen it to about 1/2" - 3/4". Too big will cause a performance loss. Once you've done that use the long, thin, needle nose pliers in the exaust entrance hole on the muffler and rip out the metal and tissue-like material lining the muffler. I presume these are the flame arrestors, once removed the compression noise is able to bounce off the walls of the muffler better making slightly more back-pressure. Getting all of it out isn't the easiest job in the world, but keep at it. You can skip this if you'd like. I reccomend it though. Now I always wash out my muffler to gt rid of the carbon build up. Greaty, you're done. You now have a bigger hole in your muffler and no "flame-arrestors". Bolt the muffler back on once it has fully dried, along with bolting the shroud back on. Make sure to put the gasket that goes inbetween the muffler and the cylinder back where it belongs. Ok, you're ready to ride, by now you should have done all these mods, so your go-ped should go about 3-4 mph over stock and your acceleration should be amazing. This mod. will make your go-ped louder due to that the exaust no longer traveles through the frame, I think its worth it though. *shrug* Filter Element Modification This modification is really simple and will increase your air flow a little bit without adding as much noise as an HP air filter and keeping the choke. Materials: Go-ped Stock Air Filter Hands Procedure: Just take off your filter cover. Remove the foam filters. Wash them in warm soapy water. Put ONE of them back in, or do it the PS&WS way by cutting out the middle of the second one leaving only a 1/2" thick border. This helps to retain the second filter. Put the cover back on, and your done. Simple enough, yet it will increase air flow which is needed when you do all of the above mods. Polish Your Fancover* and Slidetube* I've seen that a lot of people have done it, or want to do but aren't sure how...so here it is. (Note: This makes your fan cover a wee bit weaker.) Onwards... Materials: Coarse Steel Wool (#2 maybe?) #00 Fine Steel Wool Variable Speed Power Drill (about 3500 RPMs) Circular Shaped Metal Polishing Bit (Mine had those rough red dreadlock things on it, I see them all over.) Buffing Wheel Dremel Buffing Wheel for Your Dremel Metal Polish (Optional, not totally reccomended) Clear Coat Spray Paint 8-10mm Allen Key Rubber Mallet (Fan Cover) Procedure: First take off the fan cover from your engine, then remove the pull start from the fan cover. Use your coarse steel wool to wear down the paint. Then use your finer grade to smooth out any deep scratches. Then take your variable speed drill and put the metal polishing bit in it. (Sorry I don't know the name of it, they're very common though.) Then, spend a good 1.5 hours sitting there polishing it with the drill until all the paint fully comes off it and it should be a flat polished looking "color" not too reflective yet though. After that, put your buffing wheel bit in the drill and use your thick ass metal polish and coat the immediate area you're polishing, along with a little on the buffing wheel. Then sit there polishing it for another 2 hours until its REALLY shiny, almost chrome looking. (Sounds like a lot of hours, but I did it over 3 days.) Then because of the screw holes and the little nooks that you can't get into with the big buffing wheel, use your small buffing wheel bit in dremel and just dremel the rest of the dull areas away. I realized that finger prints show on it and its gets kinda dirty easy and polishing it with a rag and polish after every few rides is annoying. Solution: use clear coat spray paint on it. If you clear coat it do it in VERY LIGHT coats. Spray short bursts from about 18"-24" away until you did the whole thing. Repeat that process 2 times...if you get impatient and do 1-2 heavier coats it will get flat looking and ugly...and ruined. This should keep it shiny and it won't get flat easily. Before you clear coat it, spray some on the back of it to see how it looks, some clear coats aren't clear. (Slidetube) Procedure: Ok, to take of your slidetube, first pull it up and bend your handle bars over. Now, look at the FTG (the black piece that the slidetube covers when down.) and you'll see a key type thing at the top of it. Take your 8-10mm allen key, put it into the either hole on the top of the FTG, and hit the end with your mallet (Don't push the key thing all the way out, just enough to let the handle bars come out, its a bitch to get back in!). Pull out your allen key and the handle bar assy. will fly everywhere. Hehe. Now, take your slide tube and use the same directions you used to polish your fan cover to polish your slide tube. Done? Good. Now put the spring, then the slide tube back on your handle bars, and push the slidetube up so the end of the handle bars is sticking out. Push the end of the bars into the top of the FTG, and when alligned right, quickly hit the key (That should still be in the end of the FTG!) with your mallet. Then use your allen key to center the FTG key. Oh, it might not go as easy as I say, it normally takes me a few tries or the help of another person to hold the slidetube up while I allign it and lock it in. You should be done resulting in a killer looking front end. Hope you didn't encounter too many problems.